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Posts Tagged ‘akabanebashi’

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Ōedo Line: Akabanebashi

In Japanese History on July 1, 2015 at 5:49 am

赤羽橋
Akabanebashi (red feather bridge)

Akabanebashi in the Edo Period. My Patron who donate to this page get a private video tour of this area.

Akabanebashi in the Edo Period.
My Patrons who donate to this page get a private video tour of this area.

Stupid trivia fact. On this 38 station course, we’ve finally arrived at the midway point. We’ve come from Edo Period country side locations to some of the deepest areas of Edo. This station is 19 of 38.

I hope that so far I’ve shown that you can walk Edo or get around by train, but as a 10 year resident of this mighty city, trust me: you have to choose your battles wisely, You can’t do an Ōedo Line tour of the city unless you treat it like a pilgrimage. And now I’m thinking that would take about 1 week at least.

That said, I could organize that sort of thing. Is there any interest?
If there is, I’ll put together a 1 week Edo-Tōkyō Tour. We could cover the shoguns’ graves and hit some major spots I’ve written about. Just throwing the idea out there.

Most people who get off at this station (1) are tourists visiting Tōkyō Tower and Shiba Park (2) work in the area or are visiting one of the many hospitals in the area (3) actually live here. The area is a blending of former daimyō residences and commoner areas. You can find truly yamanote areas that are now business districts and small neighborhoods that were commoner towns or low level samurai towns.

View of Akabane Bridge and the Furukawa. The Kuroda Estate is on the right hand side. You can see their famous Kanomi (fire watchtower).

View of Akabane Bridge and the Furukawa. The Kuroda Estate is on the right hand side.
You can see their famous Kanomi (fire watchtower).

If you want to indulge your history nerd sweet tooth, I hope you’re an Edo Period nerd of the highest order. From here you can walk the expansive blocks that are now hospitals and high end apartments that used to be daimyō residences. Most of the blocks have remained unchanged since the Edo Period. If you do this, bring Edo Period maps, otherwise, it’s a meaningless walk because there isn’t much left over. If you walk along the Furukawa River towards Azabu-Jūban, you can see where the old commoner towns were that specialized in lumber and used the river from transporting heavy lumber shipments.

Between this area and Azabu-Jūban the translator/diplomat Henry Heusken was assassinated. His killer, a certain douchebag known by the name Kiyokawa Hachirō was assassinated about 10 minutes upstream from here. I think I inferred well that this area is rich in history if you know what you’re looking for. It’s really deep here.

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This article is part of an ongoing series that starts here.

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Two Famous Murders in My Neighborhood (part 1)

In Japanese History on April 2, 2013 at 1:00 am

I’ve stayed/lived/whatevered in 3 places in Tokyo. When I first came here I lived in Uguisudani for about 3 months. It’s a pretty historical place and taking walks around Taitō-ku sparked my interested in Japan History. Then I lived in Nakano for about 6 years. It’s not a very historical place, but it has its own charms and I really liked it there. Now I live in Mita, which is an area steeped in history, some of it going back as far as the Taika Era (or so we are told).

Anyhoo, I’m really happy in Mita for the time being because the area was important in the Edo Period and was also the scene of a lot of action during my favorite period in Japanese History, the Bakumatsu.

Anyways, right behind my house there is a river called the 古川 Furukawa “the Old River.” In fact, as I look out the window right now, I can see it flowing all the way down a hill where it disappears under 赤羽橋 Akabanebashi. If there weren’t tall buildings blocking the way, I could probably watch it go past Shiba and the Tokugawa funerary temple of Zōjōji.

I live between two bridges. One is called 一ﾉ橋 Ichi no Hashi (“the first bridge”) and the next is called 中ﾉ橋 Naka no Hashi (“the middle bridge”). Both bridges were sites of murders of two well-known names of the Bakumatsu: 清川八郎 Kiyokawa Hachirō and ヒュースケン Hendrick Conrad Joannes Heusken (better known as Henry Heusken in the anglosphere).

Henry Heusken

A Japanese depiction of Heusken. He loved riding on horseback, an act reserved for high ranking samurai — this pissed off low ranking, racist samurai.

Going in chronological date of their murders, we’ll start with Henry Heusken

First of all, if you’ve seen the 2004 NHK Taiga Drama 「新撰組！」 (Shinsengumi), you will know this scene well. If you haven’t watched that drama… well, you should watch it. It’s awesome! If you remember the scene when a young Kondō Isami and Hijikata Toshizō hear about a group of anti-foreigner samurai planning to assassinate a foreign translator and Isami sits down and talks with the guy about how much he loves Japan and Japanese women, that would be the event we’re talking about now. Except that scene was fiction and Kondō Isami probably never met Henry Heusken. (I actually doubt Kondō Isami ever met a foreigner ever).

But I digress… (who me??)

From

From “Shinsengumi!” – Heusken meets Kondo Isami and Hijikata Toshizo and Nakakura Shinpachi. (This never happened in real life).

Back to Henry Heusken. Who was he?

Henry Heusken was born in Holland. His family immigrated to the US in the 1850’s (maybe he was in his 20’s then?). Because he could speak both English and Dutch he got the gig of a lifetime in 1856: He went to Japan as personal secretary and interpreter to Townsend Harris on America’s first embassy to Japan in (公使館 kōshikan “legation” as compared to 大使館 taishikan “embassy”). Apparently he could speak French and German well enough for those days and he picked up Japanese quickly.

Zenpukuji - Home of the American Legation.

Zenpukuji – Home of the American Legation.

He was apparently a pretty ballsy guy and felt confident in his ability to speak Japanese or other languages to get by in most situations.  He was bangin’ a few Japanese bitches around town like Charisma Man and actually knocked on one up.  It also seems like he was a fairly high profile foreigner in Edo (at a time when there weren’t many foreigners at all — and most foreigners stayed in their secure diplomatic enclaves). Townsend Harris had apparently told him not to come back after dark because anti-foreign attacks were becoming increasingly common at the time.

A view from Akabanebashi. If you look closely at the middle right side you can see a wooden bridge. That's Nakanohashi. Heusken was killed on the right side of the river... I'm not sure why Beato took this picture from here, but whatevs...

A view from Akabanebashi. If you look closely at the middle right side you can see a wooden bridge. That’s Nakanohashi. Heusken was killed on the right side of the river… I’m not sure why Beato took this picture from here, but whatevs…

Anyways, the American legation was staying at 善福寺 Zenpukuji (“Zenpuku Temple”) in Azabu-Jūban. As Heusken came home late one night, he approached the guardhouse near Naka no Hashi (the bridge). A bunch of dirty rōnin jumped out from an alley on the side of the guard house and attacked him. Accounts vary but he may have lain in the street for close to an hour before he was carried back to Zenpukuji. The attackers aimed for his heart but most of his wounds were in his belly. Apparently he was spilling guts everywhere and it was really gross.

At Zenpukuji he was visited by a doctor and some high ranking Japanese officials. A photographer was there, too, who snapped a picture of him right after he died. Ironically, this may be the only photo of the dude (at least I’ve never seen another photo of him).

Heusken's corpse.

Heusken’s corpse.

Heusken's common law wife (in Japan she was considered his common law wife, out of Japan she was just his bitch...)

Heusken’s common law wife (but notice she’s wearing 振袖)

Heusken's wife, o-Tsuyu, with their child.

Heusken’s wife, o-Tsuyu, with their child.

He is buried in 光林寺 Kōrinji in 南麻布 Minami Azabu (South Azabu), a 20-30 walk from Azabu-Jūban Station.

His assassins were never captured, but a certain Kiyokawa Hachirō was implicated in the attack at the time. Even today most people point the finger at him.

(continued in part 2)

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