æ°å®¿
Shinjuku
(new post town)
Todayâs article is long overdue. I originally wrote about Shinjuku in February 2013. The blog has matured a lot since then and I think thereâs a lot more to say about the history of the area. The etymology is straightforward and was correct in the original article, but I just wanted to go into more detail. After all, Shinjuku isnât just one of the busiest and most important places in TÅkyÅ; itâs arguably one of the busiest and most important places in the world. Also, just like Roppongi and Shibuya, Shinjuku has its fair share of both lovers and haters[i].
By the way, there are tons of footnotes[ii] in this article. As always, I suggest you use them. This is a pretty messy story.
My Previous Articles on Shinjuku:
- The Original Article from 2013
- Åedo Line: TochÅmae & Nishi-Shinjuku-Go-ChÅme
- Åedo Line: Shinjuku Nishiguchi
- Åedo Line: Yoyogi & Shinjuku
First, Letâs Look at the Kanji
The kanji are fairly straightforward and longtime readers will probably want to skip to the next section, but for those of you arenât so familiar with the kanji, here they are.
æ° | new |
宿 | inn; suffix attached to a place name to indicate that itâs a post town |
A note about pronunciation. In the äžçºèšè shitamachi kotoba low city dialect, the pronunciation Shinjiku and Shinshiku are sometimes heard. This usually isnât done in daily conversation anymore, but is a feature of èœèª rakugo traditional story telling[iii]. I donât know if itâs a true dialectal variant or an affectation. Also, in other parts of the country the kanji æ°å®¿ can also be read as: Shinshuku, Niijuku, Arajuku, and Arayado. So stick that in your pipe and smoke it. |
Famously, there were 5 highways leading to and from Edo[iv]. Of those five è¡é kaidÅ highways, one was the ç²å·è¡é KÅshu KaidÅ which led from æ¥æ¬æ© Nihonbashi in central Edo to ç²åºè© KÅfu Han KÅfu Domain[v] in modern 山梚ç Yamanashi-ken Yamanashi Prefecture, an important Tokugawa holding. Long time readers will know that before trains and cars, people walked everywhere. If you lived in Edo and wanted to go to any place in Japan, you just had to walk there. Depending on where you wanted to go, this could take weeks. Along the way, you had to sleep somewhere. As a result, a series of å®¿å Žçº shukuba machi post towns were created to accommodate travelers[vi]. 宿 shuku, as you know means âinnâ and å Ž ba means âplaceâ and çº machi means âtown.â These towns provided food, lodging, and ample opportunities for drinking and whoring.
At the beginning of the Edo Period, the original first rest town on the KÅshÅ« KaidÅ was in é«äºæžå®¿ Takaido-shuku Takaido Post Town located in modern æ䞊åºSuginami-ku Suginami Ward. On a modern paved road, this walk could take you about 3 Âœ hours. On an Edo Period road using Edo Period walking shoes, it would have taken a little longer. In addition to that, if you were a daimyÅ, you would be expected to proceed at a respectable pace and make a spectacle of your entourage which would make the same journey take even longer. Keep in mind that 3-4 hour calculation is assuming you actually started counting at Nihonbashi. If you came from some other area, thereâs no telling how long it could take to get to Takaido-shuku.
Some Related Articles:
- The 5 Great Highways of Edo
- Wiki on the KÅshÅ« KaidÅ
- My old article on Nihonbashi
- Shitamachi vs. Yamanote (Low City vs. High City)
- Here are my photos of Narai-juku â a shukuba frozen in time
The Rise of NaitÅ-Shinjuku
In 1590, 埳å·å®¶åº· Tokugawa Ieyasu granted the å è€å®¶ NaitÅ-ke NaitÅ clan[vii] a massive fief outside of Edo to monitor traffic on the KÅshÅ« KaidÅ and the éåè¡é Kamakura KaidÅ. Later, this fief would become the NaitÅ clanâs äžå±æ· shimo-yashiki suburban residence[viii]. The land given to the NaitÅ clan was eventually deemed excessive compared to the ç³é« kokudaka rice value[ix] of é«é è© TakatÅ Han TakatÅ Domain. So a certain section of the land was confiscated by the shÅgunate and repurposed as a post town. The town came to be called å è€æ°å®¿ NaitÅ Shinjuku NaitÅ New Post Town.
Wait. What? Who the fuck are the NaitÅ?
And TakatÅ Domain? Dude, You Got Way Ahead of YourselfâŠ
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Sorry! I just wanted to give a quick overview. Bear with me (or bare with me, if you wanna), and Iâll explain everything. I promise.
The name NaitÅ will be attached to the place name Shinjuku for most of its existence, so letâs look into this family just a little bit.
Born in 1555 in äžæ²³åœå²¡åŽ Mikawa no Kuni Okazaki Okazaki, Mikawa Province, a certain å è€æž æ NaitÅ Kiyonari was an important retainer of Tokugawa Ieyasu[x]. In 1560, as a result of the 桶çéä¹æŠã Okehazama no Tatakai Battle of Okehazama, Tokugawa Ieyasu regained control of his familyâs ancestral stronghold at 岡åŽå Okazaki-jÅ Okazaki Castle. This alliance with ç¹ç°ä¿¡é· Oda Nobunaga was the beginning of Ieyasuâs rise to power and influence. This worked out nicely for all the Mikawa samurai. In 1580, NaitÅ Kiyonari was made the mentor of Ieyasuâs 3rd son (and future 2nd shÅgun), 埳å·ç§å¿ Tokugawa Hidetada. At the time, he was 25 and Hidetada was just 2.
In 1590, Ieyasu gave up control of the ancestral Tokugawa lands in Mikawa Province and assumed control of the é¢æ±å «å· KantÅ HasshÅ« 8 KantÅ Provinces. This relocation meant a massive elite transfer. That is, all of Ieyasuâs Mikawa samurai moved to Edo. In the same year, he requested that NaitÅ Kiyonari also come to Edo to continue attending Hidetada in æ±æžå Edo-jÅ Edo Castle. He granted him a large swath of land that provided tactical support to the villages surrounding the intersection of the KÅshÅ« KaidÅ and Kamakura KaidÅ. The new fief spanned from åè°· Yotsuya to 代ã æš Yoyogi[xi]. At the time, this area was country. It was essentially the undeveloped areas west of the outer moat of Edo Castle. Since it existed outside of the original castle town and was developed by daimyÅ and ææ¬ hatamoto direct retainers of the Tokugawa, it can be considered å±±æ yamanote[xii] the high city.
Oh, and speaking of hatamoto and daimyÅ and all that. When NaitÅ Kiyonari came to Edo with Ieyasu, he came as a hatamoto. The clanâs luck changed for the better in 1691. At that time, the 5th shÅgun, 埳å·ç¶±å Tokugawa Tsunayoshi elevated the NaitÅ clanâs rank. In 1698, the shÅgunate made å è€æž æ NaitÅ Kiyokazu daimyÅ of TakatÅ Domain in present day é·éç Nagano-ken Nagano Prefecture.
Bureaucracy. Itâs a Bitch.
By this time, Edo had been the Tokugawa capital for about 100 years. Although Ieyasu had granted Kiyokazuâs ancestor, Kiyonari, a vast swath of land, the rules about daimyÅ and rank had become stricter. Edo was expanding out into the country as well. This wasn’t the Sengoku Period anymore.
I mentioned it earlier, but with their newly earned daimyÅ status, the NaitÅ clan were under closer scrutiny by the èäž rÅjÅ« shÅgunâs chief advisors. The value of their new fief in TakatÅ wasnât high enough to warrant such a large landholding in KantÅ. It was bigger than or as big as most of the holdings of the richest daimyÅ â families that had been daimyÅ for a much longer time and who commanded huge domains. The shÅgunate confiscated a section of the NaitÅ estate to make things seem fair. The area they were most interested in was the land where the KÅshÅ« KaidÅ and the éæ¢ è¡é ÅmekaidÅ Åme Highway intersected. This seemed like a good place to establish a shukuba machi (post town). The local villages had already been servicing the NaitÅ clanâs residence for almost 100 years. A local economy was present on both highways. Making an official post town in the area could take some of the onus off of Takaido and äŒéŠ¬çº Denma-chÅ[xiii] and build up a stronger suburban economy.
Even though the NaitÅ clan took a hit in terms of landholdings, the newly created shukuba, NaitÅ-Shinjuku, was destined to be a success â a wet, sticky, hot mess of a success.
Some related reading:
- Battle of Okehazama from Wiki
- The Edo Execution Ground Spectacular!
- My article on Yoyogi
- My article on Yotsuya
So, What was NaitÅ-Shinjuku?
Well, before the name NaitÅ Shinjuku got thrown around, the small town that popped up to service the palatial estate of the NaitÅ was called NaitÅ Machi literally âNaitÅ Town.â[xiv] This was the commoner district outside of the NaitÅ compound. So, a strong case could be made that the original name of Shinjuku was actually NaitÅ Machi. The addition of the word Shinjuku definitely came later.
As I mentioned before, the original fief given to Kiyonari was later reduced when the family was given daimyÅ status and the area became a shimo-yashiki. But make no mistake about it; the plot of land held by the NaitÅ was still expansive. Modern æ°å®¿åŸ¡è Shinjuku Gyoen Shinjuku Imperial Park is more or less the former NaitÅ estate.
The NaitÅ knew what a fantastic rural palace they had. They built several spacious gardens with manmade hills, ponds, and all manner of flowers and trees. The family was apparently very generous to the local people and opened up theçå·å Tamagawa-en Tamagawa Garden to the general public each season[xv]. Tamagawa-en is easily counted among some of the most famous attractions of the Edo[xvi]. Even to this day, some of the cherry blossoms trees in Shinjuku Gyoen are said to be about 400 years old[xvii].
Related reading:
- Tamamo Pond â the only untouched site of the original garden
- Shinjuku Gyoen on Wiki
But it wasnât all ice cream, daimyÅ gardens, and puppy dogs. Day to day life in the area was pretty mundane most of the time. From the Edo Period until the American Occupation, Shinjuku was notorious for drinking and whoring â and by that, I mean the unlicensed sort[xviii]. Since local unlicensed sex industries were a taboo topic, the NaitÅ Machi area was perhaps best known a relay station. This meant the shÅgunate kept horse stables here for messengers who had to relay important messages quickly. The presence of a lot of horses meant this area was famously covered in éŠ¬ç³ bafun horse manure â or less politely maguzo horse shit. Itâs said that on hot days, pedestrians and horses kicked up dust clouds of dirt and dry shit and the air was yellow and foul.
The neighborhood of æ°å®¿åºåè°·ïŒäžç® Shinjuku-ku Yotsuya yon-chÅme 4th block of Yotsuya, Shinjuku Ward was called å谷倧æšæž Yotsuya Åkido. This is because from 1616 to 1792 a special é¢æ sekisho check point stood here. An Åkido â literally âlarge wooden doorâ â was the name given to the border stations that protected the routes in and out of the shÅgunâs capital. Edo had 3 main Åkido:
Name | Highway |
æ¿æ©å€§æšæž | äžå±±é NakasendÅ |
é«èŒªå€§æšæž | æ±æµ·é TÅkaidÅ |
å谷倧æšæž | ç²å·è¡é KÅshÅ« KaidÅ |
Travelers coming in and out of Edo would show their paperwork, and if approved theyâd be admitted into the city. But apparently by the 1790âs, the shÅgunate didnât see the need for such precautions anymore.
Let’s Take a Stroll through NaitÅ-Shinjuku
Travelers coming in would pass the Åkido and continue on the KÅshÅ« KaidÅ through the post town. The area covered present day æ°å®¿äžäžç® Shinjuku IcchÅme 1st block of Shinjuku, äºäžç® Ni-chÅme 2nd block, and äžäžç® San-chÅme 3rd block. Today, that stretch of road is called æ°å®¿éã Shinjuku DÅri Shinjuku Street. The street was lined with all kinds of shops and inns and would have been like any other shukuba machi. The town ended when you arrived at a fork in the road in an area called æ·æ© Yodobashi[xix]. This fork was the beginning of the ÅmekaidÅ[xx].
The post town gained quite a reputation in its first 20 years. There were 52 inns in addition to other businesses. Supposedly, nearly every business in NaitÅ-Shinjuku offered prostitutes as an additional service. It was so bad that the å¥è¡æ bugyÅsho magistrateâs office was regularly hounded by the proprietors of shops in åå Yoshiwara[xxi] who complained that they couldnât compete with pricing and availability[xxii]. They insisted that the shÅgunate either ban prostitution in NaitÅ-Shinjuku or at the very least regulate the shit out of it. After a fire devastated the area, the shÅgunate mulled the costs of rebuilding. Compounded by complaints from rich proprietors in Yoshiwara, the post town was shut down in 1718.
More reading:
NaitÅ-Shinjuku Gets Shut Down
However, the party didnât stop â it just slowed down… but it slowed down a lot.
In the same year, the 8th shÅgun, 埳å·åå® Tokugawa Yoshimune, enacted a series of sumptuary laws called the 享ä¿ã®æ¹é©ã®æ KyÅhÅ no Kaikaku KyÅhÅ Reforms. One of his reforms was aimed at restricting unlicensed prostitution and stated that æ ç± å±äžè»ã«ã€ã飯ç女ã¯2人ãŸã§ hatago-ya ikken ni tsuki meshimori onna futari made inns for travelers may have no more than 2 meshimori onna per shop. Meshimori onna is the Japanese word for girls who served meals and provided sexual favors in post towns. That meant a town like NaitÅ-Shinjuku could now be regulated so the town was back in business almost as quickly as it had been shut down.
The problem was that without its post town status people were passing through and staying at the original first official post town, Takaito. The village headman of NaitÅ Machi appealed to the shÅgunate saying that most of the townspeople had lost their livelihoods. He also argued that other post towns, Takaito in particular, couldnât handle all the traffic and re-opening NaitÅ-Shinjuku as a post town would ease the burden. Various appeals were made between 1723 and 1737 â more than 30 years. But every time the shÅgunate rejected the petitions. They were effectively drawn off the maps. NaitÅ-Shinjuku was only known to the local commoner population and the TakatÅ samurai population who needed to indulge in a nice cup of tea, a bath, and some sex with a local KantÅ girl. But this wasnât enough. The town was suffering.
Finally, in 1772, about 50 years after the post town was closed by the shÅgunate, they granted shukuba status to the area again[xxiii].
The Icing on the Cake
Recently, the shÅgunate had more or less given up on regulating the number of meshimori onna at inns. They began looking the other way when other shops began employing them too. They even went so far as to make special exceptions for certain villages, certain post towns, and even certain individual businesses. In short, NaitÅ-Shinjuku was back in full swing.
Shinjuku Swells Up & Gets Bigger
Even after the obsolescence of post towns â these were often replaced by train stations â the areaâs reputation as a red light district never diminished. To this day, Shinjukuâs lively æèäŒçº KabukichÅ district is synonymous with the sex industry.
Again, given the sheer number of people, department stores, apartments, and skyscrapers that define Shinjuku today, itâs hard to believe it was never anything but a massive city center. But the area was still pretty underdeveloped until after the 1923 é¢æ±å€§éçœ KantÅ Daishinsai Great KantÅ Earfquake. The real development began after a series of fires in 1925. The site was chosen as a å¯éœå¿ Fuku-toshin. Toshin means âcity center.â Fuku-toshin literally means âvice city center,â but maybe âurban subcenterâ is a better translation? I dunno. âVice city centerâ sounds kinda bad ass. Anyways, that was when Shinjuku really began to get its proverbial girth.
So What Happened to the Name NaitÅ-Shinjuku?
The creation of Shinjuku Ward is very complicated and boring but hereâs the short version. In the 1920âs, NaitÅ-Shinjuku was combined with some other towns to form æ·æ©åº Yodobashi-ku Yodobashi Ward. In 1947, when Shinjuku Ward was created NaitÅ Machi still existed â indeed, that postal address still exists today. And while NaitÅ-Shinjuku was the first Shinjuku, it wasnât the only Shinjuku. There were 西æ°å®¿ Nishi-Shinjuku West Shinjuku and æ±æ°å®¿ Higashi Shinjuku East Shinjuku and⊠well, you get the picture. Thus when reshuffling administrative units of TÅkyÅ in 1947, it just made sense to call the whole area âShinjuku.â This was the common name for the district anyways; NaitÅ-Shinjuku was just one part of that area.
And while we havenât lost NaitÅ Machi as a postal address, we have actually lost Naito-Shinjuku. But the debauchery of NaitÅ-Shinjuku lives on in KabukichÅ and other parts of Shinjuku Ward. I canât help but feel that the culture of Shinjuku is deeply rooted in its licentious post town days. Don’t forget things were so out of control the fucking Yoshiwara tried to shut them down!
So the next time you visit a prostitute in the area, just remember that youâre actually connecting with a profound, grand, unbroken historical erotic tradition passed down directly from the culture of the Edo Period.
Oh yeah, and the parkâs not too bad.
___________
[i] I count myself among both groups. Yes, Iâm a lover and a hater.
[ii] Footnote test. lol.
[iii] Hereâs the Wikipedia article on rakugo.
[iv] There were more than 5, by the way. But the traditional âbig 5â started at Nihonbashi. Hereâs my article on them.
[v] For the record, in the Edo Period, ç²åºè© KÅfu Han KÅfu Domain was a Tokugawa shÅgunate controlled fief located in ç²æåœ Kai no Kuni Kai Province. Fans of the Sengoku Period will recognize Kai Province and KÅfu (which both share the kanji ç² kai/kÅ) as the territory of the Sengoku warlord æŠç°ä¿¡ç Takeda Shingen.
[vi] This system wasnât a product of the Tokugawa ShÅgunate. It popped up naturally as villagers took advantage of inter-provincial/inter-domain traffic. The Tokugawa shÅgunate definitely insisted on regulating it.
[vii] Later the clan would be promoted to daimyÅ rank. They controlled é«é è© TakatÅ Han TakatÅ Domain in modern é·éçäŒé£ Nagano-ken Ina-shi Ina City, Nagano Prefecture
[viii] More about that later. At this time, the NaitÅ family were just retainers of Ieyasu. Ieyasu was just a daimyÅ, one of the 5 most powerful daimyÅ in Japan, but he still had a 10 year uphill struggle to become shÅgun.
[ix] Hereâs a good explanation of kokudaka from Samurai Archives.
[x] Who went by the name æŸå¹³å
康 Matsudaira Motoyasu in those days.
[xi] According to legend, Ieyasu told NaitÅ Kiyonari that he would give him a fief based on how far his horse could ride. This ended up being Yotsuya in the east, Yoyogi in the west, Sendagaya in the south, and Åkubo in the north. Take the story with a grain of salt.
[xii] I know this has been beaten to death here, but if you donât know what yamanote and shitamachi mean, please read this article.
[xiii] Denma-chÅ was home to one of Edoâs 3 Great Execution Grounds.
[xiv] This is what happens when commoners suck up to nobles.
[xv] As a æŠå®¶ buke military family, of course they didnât allow full access to the entire residence and all the gardens, but still, thatâs pretty cool.
[xvi] This area is now present day çè»æ± Tamamo Ike Tamamo Lake in Shinjuku Gyoen
[xvii] I donât know how you confirm this without cutting the tree down, but what the hell do I know?
[xviii] This means, no government regulation free-range prostitution. Youâll see what I mean soon enough.
[xix] If the name Yodobashi sounds familiar to you (ie; like a huge electronics retailer), youâre not going crazy. The shopâs name derives from this location. I have an article about that somewhere.
[xx] Today, parts of this road still exist, including the famous ârape tunnel.â Itâs preserved as the æ§éæ¢
è¡é KyÅ«-ÅmekaidÅ Old ÅmekaidÅ. The current road that bears the name ÅmekaidÅ has been moved a little. If you look at the walls in the tunnel, they have the whole length of the ÅmekaidÅ mapped out and each post town is labeled!
[xxi] Yoshiwara was the main licensed prostitution district of Edo.
[xxii] Yoshiwara was extremely expensive. The whole process was highly ritualized in the classier establishments. Youâd go one night to have tea with a proprietor and if you were lucky, youâd be introduced to a girl for some more tea. Then youâd have to come back and court her more until she finally said, âyes.â Of course, there were lower class places that sped up the process. But in a NaitÅ-Shinjuku it was like âdo you want a girl after your tea?â or âthanks for ordering a plate of soba, would you like a blow job after that?â
[xxiii] By 1808 the town had made a full economic recovery as itâs recorded that they had 50 inns and 80 tea houses.
If juku means cram school and shin means heart why when you put them together it’s something totally different. SHINJUKU